About our pilgrimage

Thursday, June 11, 2009

June 2009: Maryland, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan

Dear Friends,

Since our last report, we got a lift from William's newly-wed brother to Williamsport, Maryland. There, we got onto a bicycle path which was once the towpath of the C & O Canal. In Cumberland, MD it joins to the Alegheny Passage, a former railroad line that brought us up to McKeesport, near Pittsburg, PA.

These trails are full of natural beauty and history, especially from the Civil war. At times, you could almost feel the Union or Confederate scouts walking along the banks of the Potomac. In McKeesport, PA, the situation gets less romantic. It gives the impression of a ghost town, with abandoned factories and homes, and poor people on the streets. Because of the heavy traffic and narrow roads, we took city busses through Pittsburg, then cycled northward. The once thriving industries have been moved to foreign countries with lower labor costs.

Along the way, we visited the Greek Orthodox Monastery in Saxonburg, founded by Father Ephraim of Mt. Athos. It was a bit like being in Greece, as the services were in Greek and the church adorned in Byzantine style. We experienced a deep devotion and piety among the sisters--most of them young women--and also felt the efficacy of their prayers. Fr. Ephraim was sent by his gerontas (elder) on Mt. Athos to America from the Monastery of Philotheou. He has since established a number of monasteries in North America. Their success speaks to the yearning for substance and authenticity in the spiritual lives of young Americans.

Later, we visited a retired Presbyterian Pastor in New Castle, PA. He had a deep spiritual experience after which he realized that, although what he had taught as a pastor was essentially true, it was by no means the whole truth. In fact, it was only the very beginning of real knowledge. As a result, he founded a movement called "Beyond Religion" which proved to be controversial...but interesting. Of course, the title actually means going beyond religious sectarianism to finding true religion as "re-ligio"--the re-union of man with God.

Soon we had crossed the border into Ohio and headed for Columbus, where we spent a week. We were invited there by a man who organizes a week-long bike tour for young people as part of the "Great Ohio Bike Adventure." (see http://www.goba.com/). Another invitation came from a bicyle patrolman from the police department. With help from our hostess, a pharmacist at a local Catholic hospital, we were able to visit the ward for the terminally ill and sing for the patients and their visitors.

There was also a trip to Athens, OH where we spoke to the Sierra Club about "Pilgrimage, Cycling and Spiritual Development". It was surprizingly well received. We were encouraged to see how much Christian spirituality and understanding there is in the ecology movement at the grass roots level, even if at the national and international political levels it is still fraught with materialism and egotism. Many people understand that to clean and preserve the natural environment, we must first purify and ennoble our own hearts, minds and wills. This includes striving to see the working of spirit in matter and the close link between human morality (or immorality) and natural events.

Then it was on to Michigan. This state now has the highest unemployment rate in the US--largely because of their dependence on the now failing auto industry. We have met a number of people whose families have been affected. And in spite of the hardships--or, actually because of them--we see people helping and making sacrifices for one another.

Along the way we have met many kind and fantastic people: for example, a retired German-Hungarian butcher and his family; an arborist and his family with an amazing garden (we tented there!); a pastor who opened his church hall to us after a rainy day to dry out, cook and spend the night; an ex-Peace Corps volunteer and his wife from Malaysia with a creative knack for building and decorating houses (we spent the night in one)...and the list goes on.

Our greetings go out to all our friends--old and new. And our thanks go to all who have helped with prayers, good thoughts and material support.

Alexandra and William
Michigan 12 June, 2009