December 2009- Arizona, New Mexico, Texas

December 2009: Arizona and New Mexico

Dear Friends,

The last report ended with your pilgrims in the desert of southern California. They filled up their water bottles, stuffed their bicycle panniers with dried fruit, crackers and oat meal and headed for Arizona. Cycling through the desert posed some challenges...but also brought many rewards. We had to plan the legs of the journey a bit more than usual in order not to be caught in a desolate area at nightfall, and in order to stock up on food and water. The right clothing was also important: generally, we found it better to wear long, loose clothing with a high neck and long sleeves to protect from the sun. Once the helmets came off, the sun-hats went on.

Above all, the right inner attitude proved to be important. One could concentrate on the heat, the dryness, the cold nights, the bumpy roads or the monotony of the sandy landscape. Or one could be thankful for the starry nights, the sunny days and the beauty of the natural environment, full of wondrous rock- and sand-formations, cacti and other fantastic plants (sometimes in flower!) deer, jackrabbits, roadrunners (desert-dwelling relatives of the cuckoo) and other animals. Then there were the kind and friendly people we met on the way. One could also be thankful that there are roads at all (some even well-paved) and adequate water-stops and that the bicycles (with help from Uli Bahle of Rad-Mobil in Rosenheim) withstood the bumps, the gritty sand and the long hours of use superbly. Above all, one could be grateful for the blessed silence of the desert and the opportunity for long, uninterrupted prayer.

Our first stop in Arizona was in Yuma, where we stayed with M. and V. They are a very active, industrious couple who built their own beautiful home. M. explained that he does not like "couch potatoes", so that when he heard about this couple who had cycled thirty thousand miles, he and his wife opened their door to us. The four of us soon hit it off. We learned much there about the agricultural system, its dependence on irrigation and the people who make it run--from the vegetable bosses to the immigrant field workers. Virtually all of the domestic fresh vegetables in the US during the winter months come from there, or southern California.

Heading off through the desert, we made a stop at the oasis of Dateland, AZ where, we enjoyed a date milkshake and stocked up on dried dates from the palms there. Then it was on to Gila Bend, a primarily Mexican-American town, where we received a very warm welcome. We were guests of the Catholic parish there, sang (in English and Spanish) at one of their prayer meetings, and also gave concerts at a local school and a senior center. Two retired school principals who were brother and sister--the brother had moved away and was visiting, the sister was still living there--took us under their wing. Through these wonderful people, we learned much about the trials and joys of the earlier--and recent--Mexican immigrants.

Soon we were whisked up to the north of Arizona: T. and T., a couple we had met in Oregon, took us to their home in Prescott as well as to Sedona and the Grand Canyon (see picture above), and then south again in their pick-up truck. There were many memorable conversations against the background of--or after the experience of--the magnificent natural monuments there, as well as more opportunity to sing in Prescott.

Cycling through the desert, you soon begin to understand why the old desert fathers like St. Anthony (251-356 AD) went into the desert in their search for God. Therefore, it is not surprising that some people have founded spiritual communities in the American desert. We visited the Greek Orthodox monastery of St. Anthony near Florence, AZ, founded by Elder Ephrem of Mt. Athos. The monastery is a stunning island of green in a sea of desert. It is full of beautiful buildings in Greek or Russian style architecture. There are also sparkling fountains, gardens, gazebos, ornamental plants, vegetable gardens and groves of olives, dates, citrus and other fruit. When followers of Fr. Ephrem bought the land at his suggestion, it was barren and dry. We were told that, after spending three days in prayer and fasting, he took some friends to a certain spot and told them how deep to dig to find water. Soon afterward, they hit an underground river which not only provides for the monks, the hundreds of guests there virtually every day, and the irrigation of the grounds, but also yields a surplus which is sold to the city of Florence.

Most of the visitors to the monastery are Greek--either living in Greece or in the US or Canada. Only Greek is used in the church services, and most conversations one hears in the guesthouse or on the grounds are in Greek. We asked a couple of people why they flew thousands of miles to Arizona when there are plenty of monasteries in Europe. The answer was that Fr. Ephrem is a holy man, and it is worth the trip to be in his monastery and receive his blessing. This opinion is strengthened by the number of monks who have joined the monastery, as well as by a number of first-hand accounts we heard from people–sometimes with tears of joy and gratitude in their eyes-- who had received helpful counsel in times of serious distress from one of the father-confessors there.

The outer rules of the monastery are rather strict. Wake-up is at 1:00 am. Church services go from 1:30 am to about 3:30 or 4:00 am, followed by breakfast. Then there is a rest period until 7:00 am. There are more services in the afternoon and a brief "compline" in the evening. Quiet time begins at 7:00 pm. Men and women are to keep their arms and legs covered. Women are to wear skirts or dresses and scarves over their heads. As is customary in Orthodox monasteries, the monks tend to keep to themselves, often praying the "prayer of the heart" aloud when working or walking through the grounds. Yet, when approached, they respond with friendly warmth and brief, practical answers to questions or problems.

The Elder is very much loved and sought after. Though in his eighties and somewhat frail, he spends hours (as his health allows) in his office in the "Catholicon" (the main church) hearing confessions and giving counsel. We had the grace to speak with him about our pilgrimage and receive his blessing. He spoke to us (as non-native speakers) in clear simple Greek, yet with words full of meaning. His aged body seemed surrounded by light, and this impression was strengthened by the joy, love and good humor glistening in his eyes. We left the fairly brief meeting feeling that the veil between heaven and earth had become extremely thin.

Of course, where ever people are striving to know and do the will of God, there will be all kinds of human error and failing. Nonetheless, this monastery is a genuine example of Athonite tradition. In our time, when so many people turn to eastern spirituality for answers to the problems afflicting European and American society, eastern Christian spirituality is often curiously–and sadly--ignored. There, in the southwestern desert, we found a place where sincere seekers wanting to overcome this ignorance may go. We were soon to find another.
In Safford, AZ, we visited the women’s monastery of St. Paisius. Externally, it seems quite different to St. Anthony’s: It is a women’s monastery. Though under the Serbian Orthodox Church, the services are conducted in English, and the father-confessor is an American-born convert to Christianity. Yet in spirit, and in the depth and sincerity of spiritual striving, the two are very similar. It was likewise a joy and a blessing to be there, too.

Your pilgrims also visited a number of Orthodox parishes in Arizona and New Mexico. They made extended stays as guests of the parishes in both Tucson, AZ and Las Cruces, NM. They were in these parishes during Christmas Lent, i.e. the forty days before Christmas, which are considered to be a time of prayer, fasting and preparation for celebrating the coming of the Lord to the earth. Though not as strict as the pre-Easter Lent, it is nonetheless a time to collect and purify one’s self. In Tucson, the priests of two parishes had joined together to celebrate the Divine Liturgy (Eucharist) every morning of the forty days. We found this a great help in our preparation for Christmas-time.

By the beginning of December, we were at the border to Texas...just as a big snow-storm hit the state. Following Mother Nature’s hint, we checked our bikes on a train on a snowy morning in El Paso, then hopped in ourselves. We were soon walking the beach along the Atlantic Ocean in New Jersey, thus coming around full circle from where we began our North American journey back in April.

What were our biggest impressions and lessons from this journey? First, we were touched by the friendliness and helpfulness of the people we met, and by the natural beauty we encountered on the way. Second, we were surprised to see much more provision made for cyclists than we had seen thirteen years ago. Moreover, we met quite a few long-distance cyclists, especially along the more popular routes we traveled, i.e. the C&O Canal path; the Allegheny Passage; the Pacific Coast Route and the "Northern Tier" Route.

Third, and perhaps most importantly, we experienced the truth of a statement made to us by a clergyman in Detroit. American culture and American history are not simply a manifestation of materialism. Our culture and history are a struggle against materialism–and against the malevolent Spirits of Materialism and Mammon. And this struggle is allowed by divine providence precisely because Americans, with their gung-ho, can-do attitude, sober practicality and optimism are ideally suited to undertake this struggle. Materialism, when it takes root in the cultures of the old world, can be much more cynical and destructive of the soul. By comparison, materialism in America is more like an adolescent illness.

Of course, what appears as an "adolescent illness" is not to be taken lightly. Make no mistake about it: the struggle for the souls of human beings is being fought here furiously. The various struggles for the natural environment and economic hegemony, the various wars on the military, political, legal and mass media/ propaganda fronts are all only reflections and consequences of this more fundamental struggle for our essential humanity and our eternal individuality. The outcome is still undecided. Uncritical adulation of the United States as a land of milk and honey is of course mistaken. But equally mistaken and harmful is unthinking condemnation of America as a land of greed and immorality. It is the scene of a battle of far-reaching consequence for the whole world. Far better than any judgementalism here is a sincere prayer to the Creator of the world and the Good Shepherd of our souls that we may do our part in His plan to heal the world.

There were many people whom we met who have helped and supported us in many ways, and whom we did not mention in this letter. Our thanks goes out to all of them, as well as to all of our friends around the world.

Alexandra and William
4 January, 2010

P.S. One of the biggest topics of discussion we have heard here in the US is health care financing. Dr. Patch Adams (made famous from the movie about him with Robin Williams) has summed up the current state of affairs in a brief note he wrote. You can download it from:
http://www.patchadams.org/letter_on_reform_12_09

November 2009: California

Dear Friends,

Since our last report, your pilgrims have entered California. It has proven to be a land of stark contrasts. On the one hand, we have met very friendly and helpful people. We have also been in magnificently beautiful natural surroundings: rugged coastline, warm sandy beaches, huge redwoods in thick forests, and bright, arid desert land. On the other hand, we have been around heavy traffic and long stretches of shops, garages and malls. Our first night in California was spent in a campground taken over by "yippies" or similar folk with dozens of dogs: drinking, taking drugs and playing loud music they trashed the bathrooms and roamed the park all night, tearing down any piece of wood they could. There have also been many homeless people: those we spoke with seem like gentle and kind people. Perhaps they are too sensative and gentle to cope in a world increasingly run by Mammon and bureucracy. Yet they seem lost, on an apparent dead-end in life's paths, and witnesses to Mother Teresa (of Calucutta's) statement that poverty in America is primarily spiritual poverty.

As has been the case throughout our dozen years of pilgrimage, the experience of the wonder and beauty of God's creation and the essential goodness of His people stands side by side with the experience of the bitterness of mankind's fall and its consequences. The first experience strengthens our hope; the second strengthens our resolve to heal and help.

In San Francisco, we visited the Cathedral housing the relics of St. John Maximovitch, Russian Orthodox bishop of Shangai and San Francisco. We were able to sing for and speak to the children of the Christian School which is housed there. Financially, it is a miracle that the school is still running. Yet a bigger miracle is the growth of the children in genuine piety, love of God and fellowman, and heartfelt interest in the world.

Later, in the Big Sur area, we were directed to a Benedictine Monastery, New Camaldoli Hermitage. The driveway there rises from the sea to 1,500 ft (c. 500 meters). Some one told us it was only a quarter of a mile to the hermitage. actually, it was two miles, which confirmed two principles we have learned on the way: 1. Never trust car-driver's to give accurate estimates of distance. 2. It is sometimes better not to know how difficult a journey is going to be: otherwise you might turn back and miss a very important experience. The brothers took us in with true Benedictine hospitality, and we spent two days in the blessed, prayer-filled silence of their home, perched between the sea and the stars. Then it was back onto Highway 1: cars, motorhomes, steep hills, seals, fantastic sea coast and fellow cyclists from as close as California and as far away as Switzerland and Germany.

Farther south we stopped at a Japanese Buddhist Church, and received a warm welcome from the priest there, and spent the night in the contemplative atmosphere of their retreat house. It was late in the evening, we were quite tired, wondering where to spend the night...and then saw the sign for the church. We later discovered that a sister church in nearby Guadalupe (California) was celebrating their one hundreth anniversary. It played a very important role in the lives of the Japanese-Americans who had their property confiscated and were imprisoned in camps further inland during World War II. After the war, when they returned to the coast, the churches were havens and meetings points for individuals and families struggling to build new lives from themselves.

From there, it was on to Lompoc to visit William's brother, sister-in-law and twin nephews, living on an Air Force Base. We rode our bikes straight up to the main gate--full of luggage, guitar and bright green reflector sticking up in back. For some reason, the sergeant came running out of the guardhouse, greeted us personally and sent us to the visitors center. Soon, we were at their house, catching up on the news with the adults and meeting the four-year-olds for the first time. The little nephews are unbelievably cute in their good moments, and something like a combination of a tornado and an earthquake when less well behaved.

In San Diego, we were guests of the Greek Orthodox Church of St. Gregory of Nyssa. The priest, Fr. Simeon and Presbytera (matuschka) Joy-Ann are a source of light and strength not only in their parish, but also in the general community, and even in Mexico where they help support a Christian orphanage. Once or twice we sat on the patio behind the church, drinking Greek coffee made in a real "briki", eating "koulourakia", enjoying the warm the dry weather and the sun, taking in the dust and traffic noise. It was amazingly like being transported to a city in Greece. We attended a baptism down-town, sang for the patients in a mental health clinic and met with two classes of a local charter elementary school.

After cycling into the desert, we spent the night tenting behind the bicycle shop in Alpine, CA and meeting the owner. He is not only a friendly host and good mechanic, but also a role model for a number of children, drawn to the shop by the lure of bikes and finding a good-uncle figure there who teaches them explicitly about bikes, and by example about life and virtue.

The original name of El Centro, CA was "El Centro de La Palma de La Mano de Dios", that is, "the center of the palm of God's hand." It actually lies below sea level--like the low point of the palm of a hand--and would be a desert were it not for water brought from the Colorado River by canals. Here we visited the Episcopal Church, learned something of the disagreements within the Anglican Communion, and even met the local bishop who was visiting from San Diego. We also toured the amazing irrigation system and agricultural oasis, as well as the U.S.-Mexican border which is heavily guarded and patrolled. From there, it was on to Arizona.

As always, our thanks go to the many people who have helped us along the way with spiritual, emotional and material support. They are in our hearts and prayers.

Alexandra and William

12 November, 2009

October 2009: Pacific Coast: Washington & Oreon

Dear Friends,

It is now nearly half a year since we left the US Atlantic Coast. The days are growing shorter and the air is getting cooler. The odometer has just turned thirty-thousand miles (50,000 km). Your pilgrims have reached the Pacific coast, having cycled "from sea to shining sea". They have visited many good people in Mt. Vernon, Port Townsend, Edmonds, Marrowstone Island, Vashon Island and elsewhere in the Puget Sound area. From there they went southward along the coast, through Oregon and into California.

It is only possible to recount a few of the highlights we experienced along the way. Port Townsend, WA was certainly one of them. We were received by a friendly and very musical family. Not only did we spend much time singing and playing music together, but they also gave us a tour of the area, including a visit to a popular new coffee shop with a world-class barista from New York. The people in this part of the world, where Starbucks coffee got its start in Seattle, take their coffee very seriously! There was also a visit to the Orthodox Church of St. Herman of Alaska. Their patron, St. Herman, left the Russian monastery of Valaam on Lake Ladoga (which your pilgrims visited in August, 2000) and travelled to North America, going much of the way overland by dog-sled. Russian trappers and fisherman later brought their culture and religion down the Pacific coast as far south as Fort Ross, California. We were taken into the parish there like family and met many kindred souls. We went to the parish camp in a nearby park and were amazed and heartened to see so many people, especially children and teenagers living, praying, playing, singing and just being together with joy and harmony.

There was also a visit to Port Haddock, WA. On one side of the road is a Waldorf School. idealistically working to cultivate the love of learning in children. Next to it is a Bio-dynamic Farm where William gave a talk on nutrition and agriculture at a monthly "mind-mulch" meeting. Across the street is a wonderful bicycle shop run by a competent and kind former science teacher. We had the blessing of meeting both of the founding teachers, and even looked after the animals on the farm of one of them (a gem of a teacher from South Africa), as she went on a well-earned and much needed vacation.

Another highlight was a visit to the Russian Orthodox Monastery on Vashon Island. (See photo above.) The buildings in this oasis of peace and Christian spirituality are constructed in Norwegian style. Indeed, the abbot, Fr. Tryphon is of Norwegian origin. We happened to arrive just before the annual island picnic, which was hosted by the monastery, so we had the chance to meet, sing for and speak to many people on this island where people tend to keep to themselves.

In Astoria, Oregon, (after a harrowing ride over the bridge from Washington) we met a very friendly couple who thought we should stay there that night, even though it was still morning. They not only put us up, but also arranged for us to sing and speak on the Scandinavian Radio Program at KMUN and to sing for patients in the palliative station of the local hospital.

Further south and some days later, we met an undercover missionary (known by his pseudonym, Tumbleweed) in front of the Fred Meyers superstore, who promptly invited us to his home. He not only arranged for us to visit a local church and a retirement home, but also made sure that we were well supplied and provided for before continuing on our way south. You can learn more about him on his blog: www.tumbleweed-2.info From there, we proceeded southward to California. (more about that in our next blog)

As we wrote in the last blog, many people are concerned about the economic crisis: unemployment, lower house prices, unstable financial institutions and even financially unstable state governments. Looking around, though, one sees adequate food, shelter, clothing and other material needs--even luxuries. To begin with, the world is suffering a crisis of over-production. In the human body, a cancerous tumor, grows and grows at the expense of the other organs and functions of the body. Likewise, economic production today has grown at the expense of the rest of society. Political and cultural life are alienated from their true purposes and are forced to serve and boost this production.

This alienation has led to the second aspect of the problem: a crisis in the distribution of material goods. Even as material production increases, more and more people are losing their right (their right before man's law, not before God's law) to a share in this production. As a crass example, as tons of food are destroyed in Europe and America to keep prices up, children in Africa and Asia are getting sick and dying from lack of food.

No political or technical quick fix can change this. Real change must begin with a spiritual renewal, with a "metanoia", a change of spirit. Can we learn to think imaginatively instead of abstractly, to understand the interrelation among economics, politics and culture? Can we have an experience of our basic human dignity, as creatures in the image and likeness of the Creator? Can we help others to have this experience? When such questions have been answered, then and only then can real social change and healing begin.

We send our love and thanks to all our friends, to all who have helped and prayed for us along the way.

Alexandra and William

14 October, 2009

August 2009: North Dakota, Idaho, Washington

August 2009
North Dakota, Montana, Idaho, Washington

North Dakota is now far behind us. The kind people we met there are still in our hearts. And the impression of the Norwegian Stave Church in Minot, ND is there as well. This reproduction of the traditional stave church is very well kept, and is a sacred book carved in wood. It is a reminder to us of the much more living--and much less intellectual--experience of Christianity which people had in earlier centuries in Europe. The Presbyterian Church there, although housed in a more prosaic building, is also alive and vibrant, reaching out into the community to help people in both their bodily and spiritual needs.

Crossing into Montana, we passed through an Indian reservation. It was a full time, After a hot and windy day cycling, we spoke at a bible study group, then went to a traditional pow-wow with music, ceremonial costumes and dance. The next day we sang at the nursing home, the men's jail and the women's jail.

It is no secret that alcoholism, drug abuse and domestic violence are big problems on the reservation. So is lack of initiative and dependency on social welfare institutions. There is a great sense of tragedy there. The old native American culture was based on tribal consciousness and communing with the spirits of the ancestors for guidance and direction. The European settlers brought individualistic consciousness. In its best form, it meant that a person's basic humanity and not his or her tribal origin is fundamental. The individual and not the ancestors or the tribal spirit are to guide society. Consider Jefferson's words in the US Declaration of Independence:

"That to secure these [basic human] rights, Governments are instituted among Men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed"

With some few exceptions (Thomas Jefferson, who invited native American leaders to the White House, being one of them), the European Americans chose to ignore the gifts and treasures of the Native Americans. They lost the reverence for the land and nature in the process. They forgot that human rights derive from the Creator and require responsibility to the Creator, and to our fellowman. The Indians, unable to take up the new consciousness in the form presented to them, lost their lands, their livelihood and their culture. Nonetheless, we met many people with Indian backgrounds who have overcome the adversity. Very often, they are Christians with great devotion and a sensitivity for things spiritual.

A kind priest and a few friends brought us furthur across the prairie of Montana. We reached the mountains in western Montana, British Columbia (Cananda) then Idaho and Washington: full of trees and fresh water. We also met a number of people who moved here from urban areas to find a new, quieter and less hectic life. Talking to them has been as refreshing as walking and cycling in the green nature.

So our pilgrimage continues. Canada was the forty-fourth country we have visited. The odometer reads just shy of 29,000 miles (46,700 km). The dozens of people we have met, and the many people praying for and otherwise helping us are thought of and remembered with love and gratitude.

Alexandra and William

July 2009 - Three Lakes Tour--and the Mississippi

Dear Friends,

Our pilgrimage has taken us to the shores of Lake Huron, Lake Michigan and Lake Superior. The Great Lakes make a deep impression, and are a tremendous storehouse of fresh water. The way to Mackinac Island, in Lake Huron was quite interesting. We were cycling in the evening, looking for a place to camp, and had not seen any people for a long time. Then a man came out to the road to get his mail. He waved to us. We stopped, chatted for a while, and eventually accepted his invitation to tent in his yard. He is a manager for the state parks in the area, and often travels to the island. We were blessed to meet his wonderful family, and he gave us tickets for the ferry to Mackinac Island.

We were quite at home there, as there is no motorized traffic allowed. There is some horse traffic...and a lot of bicycles! As guests of the Catholic Church, we met many of the employees on the island, as that church has a special ministry to them. We sang at a Philipino mass and were welcomed like family to their dinner afterwards. Then we worked at a free dinner given to all the employees, and met (mostly young) people from nearly all over the world.

Taking the ferry to St. Ignace, we then cycled to and along the shore of Lake Michigan. Then it was up to Lake Superior, which we left in Duluth. It is a powerful and majestic lake...aptly named. Due to manufacturing defects in two of our rims, we had been having constant trouble with our rear wheels since central Michigan. In Duluth, a very kind mechanic finally helped us to resolve the last problem, which put our minds at ease, as we were cycling from and into rather remote areas.

In the east of Minnesota, we met a number of people of Finnish background. One remarkable fellow allowed us to tent by the lake on his farm. He was a gem and rock dealer. A tour through his storehouse was like being in a museum, beautiful and fascinating. Our hosts, the landscape and weather made us feel almost as if we were back in Finnland those days.

Cycling westward we came to the Mississippi port of Grand Forks, just in time for Independence Day. Kindly invited by the Orthodox priest and his wife, we visited the old iron mines and settlements around Hibbing and Chisolm, MN. The world's largest open pit iron mine is in that area. The industry brought people from many different nations there: especially Scandinavians and eastern Europeans.

While cycling through reservations, we had some meetings with Native Americans. One feels their love of nature--and we appreciated a few bicycle paths on the reservations. Some people, however, seemed to be struggling more than others. We met some pursuing higher education or socially active. There were also others caught up in drugs or alcohol...or trapped in the web of the social welfare bureaucracy.

Before long we had cycled to Lake Itasca and the headwaters of the Mississippi. The origin of the largest river in the US was first shown to an American explorer--Schoolcraft--by an Indian Chief. He named the lake as the "true head" of the Mississippi--"verITAS CAput" in Latin, which became ITASCA.

A day after leaving Itasca, the west wind blew strong. And stronger. At times we crawled at 4 or 5 mph, or simply pushed the bikes. The constant wind and slow speeds also bring up a mental trial, and one is challenged to think positively, keep one's spirits up and remain in prayer. Interestingly, we had some deep and interesting encounters just at this time. In one remote area, without any trees or bushes around, Alexandra had to relieve herself. We saw a radio station at the edge of a town, and she asked to used the rest room. Before long, we had given two interviews and sung two songs: one on a country music station, the other on a Christian station. We later met a number of people on the road who had heard us.

There were also a couple of concerts in retirement homes to very receptive listeners. Another highlight was our concert at the Dairy Queen in Mentor, MN. The very kind and generous owners are the parents of the director of one of the homes we visited. Of course, there was also an ice cream sundae and a chocolate malted!

Our last stop in Minnesota was at a Covenant Church where we sang during the social hour. Without our knowing it at the time, the sermon that day, the general theme of the congregation and the songs and testimony we offered were remarkably linked. It was a remarkable and blessed hour! A very kind parishoner arranged for us to sing that afternoon in a Catholic nursing home. Later, he drove us in his pick-up across the border to North Dakota, giving us a good hop on it and making up for all the wind resistance of the last days.

We could not write about all the fine people we have met and shared deeply with along the way. Nonetheless, they are in our hearts and prayers.

Now, here in North Dakota the wind continues to be fierce. More importantly, the people continue to be friendly and helpful. Our love and thanks go to all who help us to keep going in so many ways!!!

Alexandra and William

14 July, 2009

June 2009: Maryland, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan

Dear Friends,

Since our last report, we got a lift from William's newly-wed brother to Williamsport, Maryland. There, we got onto a bicycle path which was once the towpath of the C & O Canal. In Cumberland, MD it joins to the Alegheny Passage, a former railroad line that brought us up to McKeesport, near Pittsburg, PA.

These trails are full of natural beauty and history, especially from the Civil war. At times, you could almost feel the Union or Confederate scouts walking along the banks of the Potomac. In McKeesport, PA, the situation gets less romantic. It gives the impression of a ghost town, with abandoned factories and homes, and poor people on the streets. Because of the heavy traffic and narrow roads, we took city busses through Pittsburg, then cycled northward. The once thriving industries have been moved to foreign countries with lower labor costs.

Along the way, we visited the Greek Orthodox Monastery in Saxonburg, founded by Father Ephraim of Mt. Athos. It was a bit like being in Greece, as the services were in Greek and the church adorned in Byzantine style. We experienced a deep devotion and piety among the sisters--most of them young women--and also felt the efficacy of their prayers. Fr. Ephraim was sent by his gerontas (elder) on Mt. Athos to America from the Monastery of Philotheou. He has since established a number of monasteries in North America. Their success speaks to the yearning for substance and authenticity in the spiritual lives of young Americans.

Later, we visited a retired Presbyterian Pastor in New Castle, PA. He had a deep spiritual experience after which he realized that, although what he had taught as a pastor was essentially true, it was by no means the whole truth. In fact, it was only the very beginning of real knowledge. As a result, he founded a movement called "Beyond Religion" which proved to be controversial...but interesting. Of course, the title actually means going beyond religious sectarianism to finding true religion as "re-ligio"--the re-union of man with God.

Soon we had crossed the border into Ohio and headed for Columbus, where we spent a week. We were invited there by a man who organizes a week-long bike tour for young people as part of the "Great Ohio Bike Adventure." (see http://www.goba.com/). Another invitation came from a bicyle patrolman from the police department. With help from our hostess, a pharmacist at a local Catholic hospital, we were able to visit the ward for the terminally ill and sing for the patients and their visitors.

There was also a trip to Athens, OH where we spoke to the Sierra Club about "Pilgrimage, Cycling and Spiritual Development". It was surprizingly well received. We were encouraged to see how much Christian spirituality and understanding there is in the ecology movement at the grass roots level, even if at the national and international political levels it is still fraught with materialism and egotism. Many people understand that to clean and preserve the natural environment, we must first purify and ennoble our own hearts, minds and wills. This includes striving to see the working of spirit in matter and the close link between human morality (or immorality) and natural events.

Then it was on to Michigan. This state now has the highest unemployment rate in the US--largely because of their dependence on the now failing auto industry. We have met a number of people whose families have been affected. And in spite of the hardships--or, actually because of them--we see people helping and making sacrifices for one another.

Along the way we have met many kind and fantastic people: for example, a retired German-Hungarian butcher and his family; an arborist and his family with an amazing garden (we tented there!); a pastor who opened his church hall to us after a rainy day to dry out, cook and spend the night; an ex-Peace Corps volunteer and his wife from Malaysia with a creative knack for building and decorating houses (we spent the night in one)...and the list goes on.

Our greetings go out to all our friends--old and new. And our thanks go to all who have helped with prayers, good thoughts and material support.

Alexandra and William
Michigan 12 June, 2009

May 9, 2009 -- New Jersey, Delaware

Dear Friends,

Our pilgrimage has brought us to the USA. We packed our bicycles and saddle bags and flew to Philadelphia, the city of brotherly love. Our watches were set to Eastern Time, the cycle tachometer set to miles, and our bio-rhythms set to the stars above North America. After attending the beautiful wedding of William's brother, we got a ride to the Atlantic coast and Ocean City, NJ. There was a concert in a nursing home and a big cross-island cycle rally, then we began cycling south. So the American leg of our pilgrimage began very close to Egg Harbor City, the birthplace of Peace Pilgrim (See the link on our web-site if you want to learn more about this remarkable woman.) The first day was rainy but full of blessings: a mechanic who helped us clean the sand out of our chains and gears, a phenomenal double rainbow and friendly Christians who let us tent in their campground as their guests.

The next day, we sailed on the ferry to Lewes, Delaware—after Jamestown, the oldest European settlement what is today the US. Then we went up to Dover, the capital of Delaware, and took part in the first Bicycle Summit there the next day.

The summit made a big impression on us. It was a privately funded and organized meeting of people from government, road and traffic planners, industry, bicycle business, cycling clubs (national, statewide and local) and public health officials. The theme was the future of cycling as a means of transportation to preserve the environment, increase the quality of life and promote general health. We were not the only participants who cycled to the summit, but we did have the most luggage, and the only guitar--which we put to use on the stage at the beginning of the afternoon session. The governor of Delaware was there. He has cycled the entire state from north to south three times. During the summit, he signed an executive order requiring the DOT to plan for bicycle and pedestrian traffic in all new roads and renovations of existing roads (except in the case of a serious, documented impediment.)

The keynote speaker was a traffic engineer and cycling advocate from Oregon, Mike Ronkin. He said that in Portland, about a third of the commuters use bicycles: this is still low compared, e.g. to Copenhagen, but the highest rate in the US. He called on those responsible for traffic planning not to ask: "How can we arrange for the most cars and trucks to drive through as quickly as possible?" but rather to think holistically and to ask: "How can this street best be designed so that all traffic participants, residents and businesses are best served?"

Without saying so explicitly, he urged placing the human being—and not the automobile, as is usually the case today—at the center of street design and traffic engineering. The attendees seemed to be enthusiastic about it. We will have to see if this enthusiasm can be translated into action: the time is ripe—even over-ripe—for this. Fuel prices rise, traffic jams increase and the lack of physical activity is a significant cause of illness in people today. Moreover, it is most assuredly time to think and act realistically, in accordance with the nature, man and the spirit—even in the Department of Transportation. After the summit, we cycled up to the northern border of Delaware, so that we also cycled through the first of the United States. Aside from some high traffic areas and a bridge being used as a kind of trash dump, we found the streets, the other traffic participants and the people we met on the way to be quite bicycle friendly. That is a positive change.

During the last seven years, the American public was quite concerned with security and the prevention of terrorist crime. This can still be seen today, for example in billboards and advertisements on busses urging people to report suspicious people or activities to the federal authorities. However, the edge of fear on this subject seems to have abated. On the other hand, one hears and sees a lot about the financial crisis and increasing unemployment. People seem to agree that the crisis is the result of greed, dishonesty and breach of trust in the highest echelons of the financial community.

One seldom hears, however, that this crisis is primarily and fundamentally a moral crisis which comes to expression in the economy. Nonetheless, because this is so, the solution to this crisis must also be moral. A moralistic attitude which blames and criticizes others without affecting one's own conscience or action will bring nothing. However, a moral approach strengthens virtue and overcomes vice beginning in one's own soul. If I am honest toward myself, then I can speak the truth effectively. If I am grateful toward, and in harmony with, God and my fellowman, I can bring justice through my life. As the Russian starez St. Siouan said: "If you achieve true inner peace in yourself, a thousand souls around you will be saved."

Our thanks goes to all our dear friends for their prayers, their good thoughts and material support. Please send us an e-mail if you feel so inspired and let us know how you are doing.

Alexandra and William
Wilmington, Delaware 9. Mai 2009