September 2008: Switzerland, USA, Denmark, Sweden, Norway

September 2008: Switzerland, USA, Denmark, Sweden, Norway

Dear Friends,

It has been quite some time since our last open letter. Our (not only by) bicycle pilgrimage has taken us quite far since then. We cycled across Switzerland, from the Jura to the “Vierwaldstaedtersee”, connecting two houses of prayer. In the west, we visited our old friends, Pierre and Fabienne who have created an oasis of prayer and devotion in a parish house not far from Le Chaud du Fonds. It is deeply inspired by the spirituality of St. Silouan of Mt. Athos and his spiritual pupil, Fr. Sophrony of Essex, England. From there we went to Flueli and our beloved Nikolaus von der Flue. We visited the former Cloister of the Dorothea sisters (named after Nikolaus’s wife) which is now a house of prayer, dedicated to the prayer of the heart. This is also an oasis of spiritual life.

Afterwards our travel took an unexpected turn. Due to illness in William’s family, we flew to America. Three impressions were quite strong. First, people were absolutely enthralled by the election--especially the Democratic-party primary. Support for the old regime seems to have evaporated and people are looking for a change and a new approach to government. They are also very eager to talk about politics. Of course, the big question is: will the change be merely a change in packaging, or will there be fundamental change in the government? The latter can only happen with a moral renewal and a change of heart. It is much harder to awaken your conscience and change your soul than it is to vote in an election, but this awakening has to precede any real progress.

The second impression was a widespread (though not universal) concern about the economy and worries about unemployment and poverty. Although some people are becoming wealthier, much of the middle class seems to be slipping into the ranks of the poor, and this is occupying people’s minds. Obviously, the two impressions are connected.

The third impression was very heartwarming. We visited the Greek language charter school in Wilmington, Delaware. This is a public school using a combination of the state curriculum and Greek language instruction. The principal and class teachers are licensed public employees. But there are also four teachers from Greece, supported by the Greek ministry of education and an Hellenic-American community service organization. The children were obviously happy there. The parents and grandparents were very happy with the school. And—although only four of the over one hundred children are of Greek descent--the children spoke, sang and recited Greek remarkably well. The aim of the school is to use international culture to instill a love of learning and enthusiasm in the children. Based on our experience, it is working. You can read more about them on their home-page:
http://www.odysseycharterschooldel.org/

On coming to Europe, we picked up our bikes, pointed the wheels northward and cycled into Scandinavia. In Denmark, we visited the first Danish-language Orthodox church in Kongs Lyngby and spent a blessed time with Fr. Paal and Presbytera Ingher. There was also a brief visit to Roskilde Cathedral, rich with the tradition, history and symbolism of Denmark.

The highlight of our trip to Sweden was Vadstena. We arrived (without actually having planned it) exactly on the “himmeliske foedelsdag"--the heavenly birthday (i.e. death day)--of St. Brigitte of Sweden. We were blessed to meet the two pilgrim priests of the Swedish Lutheran church, Hans Erik and Thomas and to stay at the pilgrim’s center near the Abby church. It was moving to see how the pilgrimage movement in Scandinavia is blossoming, and how it is bringing an impulse of mutual understanding. People of different confessions and religions come together in their experience of pilgrimage, as do people of different nationalities and backgrounds. After a some days of walking or cycling in prayer and simplicity--with all its difficulties and all its joys--your shared humanity with your fellow pilgrims begins to outweigh the outer differences.

Upon entering Norway we were greeted with three days of rain--and a very warm welcome from the owner of a hostel in the Finnskogen (a large wooded area settled by Finns some nine generations ago.) Our first day, we sang at the baptism of a baby. The next week, we sang at the wedding of a young couple in Kirkenaer. Although we did not know this until much later, they had been looking desperately for singers for their wedding. We stopped in the church to pray just as they were having their rehearsal, so we offered to sing them a wedding song. We sang for them in the church...and the rest is history. There were many warm and interested greetings from the wedding guests afterwards. It seems that the local newspaper had run a fairly large article about us just two days before.

In Koppang we visited our dear friends at Lia Gaard. This is a family retreat center run by a beautiful couple--Sigmund and Ingeborg--in a beautiful setting by a lake. Shortly after we arrived, they began a silent retreat. Though little was spoken--or perhaps because little was spoken--you could feel the power of the spirit of God’s love there to heal and guide those open to it. It was deeply moving. We also visited the hermitage and Orthodox chapel--dedicated to St. Fotini, the Samaritan woman at the well--being built with great devotion.

There were stops at pilgrim’s rest-stops, including the home of Beate, the head of the cultural department for the township of Tynset and her family. She is very active in preparing the pilgrimage routes in her district, though her biggest long-range pilgrimage at the moment consists in raising three beautiful children. There was also a visit to Roeros, where we visited old friends: Kjell and Turid. Their pilgrimage has been through Kjell’s serious illness, and although it has brought them suffering, it has also brought them spiritual treasures. We sang and spoke at the “Mountaintop Church”, ate waffles (of course) and were interviewed for the local newspaper. Later, we arrived in Trondheim just in time for the farewell to Rolf, the pilgrim’s priest at the Nidaros Cathedral who has served there for the last five years.

The last while has brought Alexandra some extensive problems with her teeth, and has gotten us acquainted with a number of dentists and dental technicians in a variety of countries. Our thanks go to all who have helped us so much.

This letter has concentrated on some of the positive experiences we have had. Indeed, there is much positive in the world--way more than most people imagine if their major source of information is TV and newspapers. Yet we have also seen the suffering in the world. Perhaps the most obvious example of this is the flood of refugees and immigrants to Scandinavia from war-torn or economically depressed countries in the middle east and Africa. These people are on pilgrimages of a much different kind than those who voluntarily take to the road to come closer to God. Yet, whether they come with good, bad or mixed intentions, they are pilgrims nonetheless--our brothers and sisters on the way.

Our heartfelt greetings go to all our friends and acquaintances--new and old--and our thanks goes to alll the many people who have helped us on the way materially, with prayer and with goodwill and kind thoughts!

Alexandra and William
September 2008